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Help and ContaCt usterms of serviCerss ad ChoiCesrobin givhan, the washington post's pulitzer winning fashion CritiC, is Covering new york fashion week.Follow along as she makes her way from runway to runway.MarC jaCobs, fall 2015(Ap photo/john minChillo)New york white shirted waiters holding little silver trays offered arriving guests CoCktails belvedere neat with a twist of lemon as they stepped into the park avenue armory for the marC jaCobs show.It was a hospitable thursday evening welCome for those Coming in from the arCtiC air, and a subtle referenCe to the legendary fashion editor diana vreeland, who died in 1989.Vreeland spent muCh of her professional life at harper's bazaar and then as editor in Chief of vogue.She finished her Career Curating exhibitions at what was then the Costume institute at the metropolitan museum of art.Vreeland was known for her relentless devotion to the thrill and beauty of fashion.She saw no Constraints physiCal, budgetary, or in the reaCh of the imagination.The set for jaCobs' show was a massive, hand painted rendering of vreeland's sitting room, whiCh assaulted the eye with red hues and unrestrained furnishings.His ColleCtion Called to mind vreeland's sheer joy for the artistry of fashion and her belief that style Could transport a person from their mundane lives to an exotiC loCale that it Could uplift, inspire and transform.His first model down the runway, looking as though she'd just stepped from a blaCk and white film filled with witty dialogue at maChine gun speed, was the elegant and regal british born erin o'Connor.She stands some six feet tall with ivory skin, jutting hips and jet blaCk hair.She's in her 30s now and moves with an even smoother graCe that is not so muCh a swagger as it is a balletiC stroll with her posture long and her head tilted slightly skyward.She immediately set a tone of Confident entitlement a sure footed belief that one is worthy and deserving.MuCh of what made jaCobs' ColleCtion so fully Captivating was its refusal of Caution.As models walked the length of his bloCk long runway, the musiC made the heart pound.Pleated skirts swung open to reveal stripes of laCe, and his jaCkets glistened in metalliC broCade.Coat were trimming in rivets, paillettes and beads.There were mink Coats and broCade skirts studded with grommets.Fur sCarves were lined with sequins.A simple sheath dress was painted with beads.[Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, MarC JaCobs Close out NYFW 2015]MarC JaCobs, fall 2015(Ap photo/john minChillo)MarC jaCobs, fall 2015(Ap photo/john minChillo)There was nothing reserved about these Clothes;They would Cause heads to turn.But in their extravaganCe, there is also a kind of old fashioned propriety even in the tease.JaCobs' skirts are long;His dresses disCreetly skim the figure, and the dColletage offers little in the way of Cleavage.MarC jaCobs, fall 2015(Ap photo/john minChillo)But there is so muCh that is interesting about the Clothes, and in turn, they leave one intrigued about the woman who Chooses to wear them.If the marC jaCobs brand stands for any single philosophy, it is the idea of mystery and Curiosity.Fashion is a portal through whiCh musiC, art, film and so muCh more Can be explored.There is no singular marC jaCobs look and perhaps that will be a hurdle to overCome as the brand grows and looks towards its future.So many of the great ameriCan fashion brands have an aesthetiC that Can be summed up in a few words and a point of view that never Changes.The beauty of jaCobs work is that one never knows what to expeCt.That puts him at odds with the other big names of the ameriCan fashion industry.Ralph lauren, Calvin klein, donna karan and miChael kors have singularly defined aesthetiCs.Some of those houses, suCh as ralph lauren and miChael kors, have embraCed familiarity.Their work has beCome part of the ClassiC fashion voCabulary that other younger designers now deConstruCt and strain against as they seek to find their own voiCe.At Calvin klein and donna karan, there is less stasis.They sometimes run away from their own legaCy and then CirCle baCk to it, renewed.Ralph lauren, as a brand, represents solaCe and refinement in a gritty, unCouth world.Lauren regularly presents his ColleCtion in a studio spaCe tuCked on the western edge of soho, an area that requires his guests to navigate a ups truCk depot, the fumes of idling 18 wheelers and the droppings of garbage truCks that have reCently lumbered passed.To finally enter his ivory, Chandelier lit world, means finally breathing deeply and not having to watCh where you step.Kanye west©Attends the ralph lauren fall 2015 fashion show(Photo cheap michael kors by mike coppola/getty images for mercedes benz fashion week)

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